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| Cunard Queen Elizabeth 2019 Amsterdam and Norwegian Explorer - part 2 |
Alesund - Friday 11 October
We had visited Alesund once before, on the Queen Elizabeth 2 in 2004. The day was dry and sunny, and at 10 degreesC, warmer than expected. Perfect for a walk around the historic town. The town suffered a major fire in 1904, which destroyed many of the wooden houses, and the rebuilt town is in Art Nouveau style. The main industry is fishing. October is outside the tourist season and the Tourist Information Office at the gangway did not know what was open. The town was quiet and the Alesund church, the Fisheries museum, the Art Nouveau Centre and the Waldehouse were all closed. Fortunately the City Museum was open and the other buildings could be admired from the outside. The city park was open and the climb up to the Fjellstua/Aksla viewpoint was a priority. On another visit an alternative way to spend the day is to catch one of the many ferries which go to other islands.
The QE berth was next to the main bus station where the little blue tourist train was based. At 0900 we set off to explore. Crossing the main road by underpass was the safest way to reach the Kremmergaarden Shopping Centre and the Post Office. The old buildings and shops were around the Dronning Sonya’s Square on the banks of the Alesundet. Turning left along the water there was a bridge across to the Art Nouveau Museum which occupies the old Swan Pharmacy building dating from 1907. There are two interesting buildings on this side of the water and the first is the Alesund church. It was built in 1909 in Norman style and has magnificent frescoes and stained glass windows, including those donated by Kaiser Wilhelm II after the great fire. Two Cunard tour buses arrived and we hoped the church would open for them but it was firmly shut, and a notice explained it would only open for the weekly church service on Wednesday evening.
From here it was downhill, passing the distinctive mustard-coloured school and down narrow steps to the Theatre on Molovegen, the road to the Molo pier. The Fisheries Museum is an important building in a restored wharfside warehouse. The Museum was closed but the replica 2015 sailing bank fishing vessel could be admired from a distance. From 1861 to 1900 more than 300 bank fishing vessels were built. The Molo pier and lighthouse is Norway’s oldest, dating from 1858. Express ferry boats and Hurtigruten leave from quays on the other side. The area had lots of art galleries and painting supplies shops and the Scandic Hotel. Returning along Apotekergata to the bridge, the souvenir shops were all open and the city was filling with shoppers.
It was a short climb to the entry to the city park where we passed the statue to the city founder Rollon, then joined the procession walking the 418 steps up to the viewpoint at the Fjellstua restaurant on Mount Aksla. The viewpoint at Byrampen was half way and there were lots of other places to sit and enjoy the views. The mainly concrete steps were in excellent condition. At the top there was a charge to enter the Fjellstua viewpoint, and the little tourist train was waiting while people went and took photos. The map showed a choice of hiking trails so there were options to reach the Rundskue, a tall communications tower. The path went alongside one of several dams built on the mountain and there was a grassy picnic area with seats and BBQs, and outdoor gym equipment. The shelters had typical turf roofs. The road from the Fjellstua came here too. The walk back down was by a different path with less steps, to Vannspringdalen. We wondered why there was no sign of the other main roads marked on the map then decided there must be tunnels which we confirmed when we got back to the ship and could look across and see their entry.
On the corner of Grensegata we passed Waldehouse, the famous house that did not burn in the 1904 fire. From Storgata we took steps up to the City Museum. From the grounds of the Museum there was a good view back of the steps we had just climbed to get to the Fjellstua restauant on Mount Aksla. The Museum had exhibitions about the Great Fire of 1904, fishing, seal hunting and the German occupation in WWII. In the attic, there were reconstructed rooms of a photographer's studio, dentist, cobbler and hairdresser. Outside was a scale replica of the Brudeegget covered rescue boat which sailed with four people over 5 winter months from Norway across the Atlantic to Boston, USA. It is named after the leader of the expedition, Ole Brude, and is the predecessor of the sealed rescue boats fitted on all ocean-going vessels. Originally invented in 1904 there is only one still in existence which was manufactured in 1910. This was restored in 2001 and sailed from Goday to Alesund, and is inside the museum on display. Suddenly there was a loud explosion, similar to the noonday gun in Malta. We checked the cannons outside but do not know what caused the noise, unless there was blasting as part of the building work nearby.
At Sea and Wedding Anniversary - Saturday 12 October
We had mentioned that it would be our Sapphire (45th) wedding anniversary today, and that this year we did not want any anniversary cake or the singing of songs by our restaurant waiters. We celebrated by having lunch in the Verandah restaurant, which was complimentary because we were a Cunard Diamond member. To our delight we were offered a glass of Champagne when we arrived, and then the glasses were refilled. We eventually found out who had provided the special gift.
In the evening the dress code was formal and there were more drinks at the Cunard World Club party, which everyone who has 2 or more Cunard cruises is invited to attend. We were Most Travelled Guests and were presented with a gift and flowers. After dinner we returned to our stateroom to find it had been decorated with a pair of towel swans and a heart-shaped circle of red hearted chocolates. It was a lovely ending to a splendid day.
The story continues at Tromso in the North of Norway
